Scotland Day 8 & 9: Lewis Island

When we went to Ireland a few years back, we went to Arran Islands and we were kinda disappointed in them. So we were a bit hesitant about doing some island trips while visiting Scotland. BUT we decided to add Lewis Island to our list (sidenote: we also added the Islay Island later on in this trip, but that's mainly a whisky thing, which can not possibly be a disappointment).

Overall, visiting Lewis Island was nice. It was still WAY better than Arran Islands, but there's just something about islands...I think it's the fact that ferry rides take a good portion of time and you feel pressured to get things done. 

Lewis Island and Harris Island are connected, but we were only here for one night, so we could only do things on Lewis Island. I think if we had stayed here two nights, we would have liked things more. 

Anywho, we started with a 3 hour ferry ride, which actually went pretty well for me. I was pleasantly surprised, since I am awful on the ocean. Granted, I could still tell the milli-second we went from the bay to the actual ocean, and I still had to take super-drowsy Dramamine and stare straight ahead and do absolutely nothing (except sleep), but overall, this was my most successful time on the ocean so far. The ferry was quite big, so I think that was part of the reason why I didn't have as bad of sea-sickness.

The first thing we did was head for the Island of Great Bernera, which is connected to Lewis Island. We went to a nice beach there with some Iron Age ruins that were pretty neat looking (they recreated one of the huts near the beach so we could see what it looks like. It's the mound near the center in the above picture). The main reason, however, that we went here was for some Standing Stones, and we couldn't find them. It was pretty disappointing (this is my third standing stone situation on Scotland where we couldn't find them!), but the beach and ruins were really nice.

Next up, we headed to the Callanish Standing Stones. There are three different Standing Stones locations all within a mile of each other for some reason. Apparently, 5,000 years ago, people on this island had WAY too much time on their hands and also lots of large stones to drag around and perfectly line up with astronomy and whatnot. 

We started with Callanish Standing Stones #3. They were my favorite. I think I liked them the most because they were quite large but still had a very...magical/sacred feeling. 

Next up, we went to Standing Stones #2, where Paul and I were all alone and got some pretty awesome pictures. Not as many of these stones still stand, but it was still very amazing. 

Finally, we ended with the most popular touristy ones, #1. They were HUGE and the biggest Standing Stones that I have been to so far. Since people march all over around them, they didn't make my skin tingle like the others, but they were still impressive and totally worth seeing.

I don't know what it is about Standing Stones, but they just resonate with me deeply. There is such a solemn magical feeling when I am around them. My skin gets all tingly and I always cry. I feel like maybe they were the Original Churches for God. I just adore them, and the less touristy, the better. So I am very glad that I went to this island so that I could weep and touch such sacred stones. I know, I know...I'm such a sap.

Then we headed for the Butt of Lewis, the lighthouse on pretty cliffs on the very north bit of the island. It's crazy to think how close we were to the Iceland and the other super north stuff up there. Our traditional globes/maps just don't accurately do justice to how north Scotland really is.

That night, we stayed in a lame airbnb where we were just staying in a bedroom on their top floor and were sharing a bathroom with 5 people. Lame. But we only crashed there for the night and slipped out ASAP in the morning, so it wasn't too big of a deal. These remote Scottish places seem to be really into the whole renting a bedroom thing w/o any privacy. We could NOT find anything normal on the entire island.

The next morning, we headed out to do a bunch of things before we had to leave for the ferry at noon-ish. First up, we went to Dun Carloway, a 2000 year old stone tower that was used for Clan meetings once upon a time. Sadly, it was under construction, so it wasn't as interesting as usual.

We then headed for a Norse Mill and Kiln, which was neat (although they needed signs with info on them). They basically made an authentic mill for grinding grain and a kiln from the past. The buildings had Thatch roofs and everything. It was cool to see how things worked back then.

Then we headed for Dalmore Beach, which is a really pretty beach. Paul attempted to go fishing, but sadly caught zero fish. Next, we went for some local pastries and coffee and then ended with Arnol Blackhouse, which were 3 different old houses to look at: a traditional Blackhouse with a peat fire, a Blackhouse ruin, and the next level of housing they used after Blackhouses. 

The Blackhouses were fascinating to see. Just like the Mill and Kiln, they had peat and thatch roofs. The animal stable was part of the house, and they were called blackhouses because the peat fires (which were never supposed to go out) made the walls black. I understand now why so many people back then ended up with tuberculosis. They lived in blackhouses well into the 1800s, which is just crazy to think about.

After that, we went back to the ferry terminal to head back to the mainland. Unfortunately, the winds were bonkers-strong, so the way back was not as nice as the first ferry ride we took. I still managed NOT to barf, so it was still a successful ocean trip, in my opinion. 

We then drove another hour-ish to a shed in someone's backyard that was big enough to hold a bed. We had to go inside their house for the bathroom (Note: if anyone needs a retirement business plan, please consider moving to Northern Scotland and opening a normal Airbnb where people can have their own place with their own bathroom. I promise that you'll always have business during tourist season).

(P.S.) The animals continue to perfectly pose for Paul as he practices becoming a Professional Photographer. Here's a REAL picture he took of a lamb near Callanish Standing Stones #3. I know it looks photo-shopped, but it's real!